Subash Buddhist Ruins, Largest Buddhist building complex in Xinjiang

The Buddhist Channel, 14 Oct 2023

Xinjiang, China -- Nestled along the serene banks of the Kucha River in the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region lies a silent testament to a rich tapestry of history, spirituality and cross-cultural exchange. The Subash Buddhist Ruins, remnants of the grandest cluster of Buddhist edifices in Xinjiang, have a story that unfolds over centuries, weaving through the 3rd century to reach their zenith during the Sui (581-618) and Tang (618-907) dynasties.

The name "Subash" carries significance in the Uygur language, signifying "water source." This settlement once thrived as an oasis, a cradle of development and prosperity for Buddhism in the heart of Xinjiang.

This temple's origins trace back to the Wei-Jin Dynasties (220-420), and it was graced by the presence of the eminent Kucha monk Kumarajiva (344-413). Kumarajiva, known for his prolific sutra translations, made a significant impact on Chinese Buddhism from this sacred abode.

However, it was during the illustrious Tang Dynasty (618-907) that Subash Temple experienced its heyday. The temple precincts were graced by a congregation of 10,000 devoted monks and welcomed countless pilgrims.

Notably, it became a temporary refuge for the legendary monk Xuanzang on his odyssey from the capital, Chang'an, to ancient India in the 630s. Xuanzang's stay in Subash, which spanned over two months, left an indelible mark as he shared his spiritual wisdom with the people.

In his travelogue "Great Tang Records on the Western Regions," Xuanzang eloquently narrated the natural beauty of Subash, with its endless stream of devout pilgrims. Regrettably, at some point between the 13th and mid-14th centuries, the temple fell into abandonment.

Over nearly a millennium of solitude, the Subash Temple's ruins continue to captivate visitors, like a time capsule preserving its legacy. Amid the boundless desert backdrop, the crumbling pagodas stand tall, bathed in the golden rays of sunlight, whispering tales of past grandeur.

For roughly a thousand years, Subash Temple played a pivotal role in the cultural exchange between the East and West, exerting its significance throughout China's Western Regions. The ruins are revered for their historical, artistic, scientific, and social value. Its construction techniques echo the earthen ruins found in the arid Northwest China and even Central Asia.

Today, the 110,000-square-meter western half of the site near Kucha City opens its gates to the public. Here, a central 11-meter-high pagoda presides over a landscape adorned with temples, grottos, halls, and monks' dormitories. The ruins have unveiled a treasure trove of artifacts, from coins and pottery works to iron and copperware, murals, clay Buddhist figurines, and Buddhist relic boxes dating back to the 3rd and 9th centuries.

As an integral part of the UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site "Silk Roads: the Routes Network of Chang'an-Tianshan Corridor," the Subash Buddhist Ruins stand as an embodiment of the harmonious blend of faith and history.

The ruins' mystique was partially unraveled by Japanese archaeologist Count Otani, who uncovered a sarira, a Buddhist relic box dating to the 6th–7th century. The sarira features Central Asian men adorned in long tunics, reminiscent of the artistic friezes created by the Tocharians.

The Subash Buddhist Ruins offer a unique opportunity to traverse time and culture, capturing the essence of a spiritual oasis that transcends the boundaries of centuries and civilizations.