Asalha Puja Greeted at the Scenic Beauty of Reckong Peo, Himachal Pradesh

The Buddhist Channel, 2 August 2023

Reckong Peo, Himachal Pradesh (India) -- Reckong Peo, the captivating capital of Kinnaur district in Himachal Pradesh, provides a rejuvenating experience for adventurous travelers. Perched at an elevation of 2,300 meters, the place is renowned for its traditional architecture, vibrant culture, rich Buddhist spirituality and sprawling apple orchards, thriving in the mild climate throughout the year.

Brimming with life and serenity, Reckong Peo offers a unique vantage point to witness two of the greatest Himalayan peaks – Kinnaur Kailash (6,050m) and Raldang (5,499m) – a sight to behold.

Kinnaur Kailash holds deep religious significance as it is believed to be one of the mythical abodes of Lord Shiva. At its peak, a 79 feet high rock formation called the Siva Linga captivates visitors, with its color-changing phenomenon throughout the day, revered by both Hindus and Buddhists.

Another remarkable aspect of Kinnaur is its vibrant and colorful women, elegantly adorned in traditional attire. Engaging with the locals offers valuable insights into the lives of the people in this quaint hill-town.

On August 2, 2023, as the rainy season begins in this region of India, Buddhist monks adhere to their tradition of "Ashad Purnima" or "Asalha Puja," a time when they remain in one place to welcome the seasonal rains. This practice is also observed in countries like Bhutan, Tibet, Mongolia, Thailand and Sri Lanka, where Buddhist monks engage in "Varshavas" or "Vassas" around the same time each year.

In the Kinnaur district, the observance of Ashad Purnima has been a continuous tradition, thanks to the efforts of the esteemed scholar Geshe Palden Tsengge Rinpoche, who established the Chhoskhor Ling Buddhist Service Association.

The origin of this tradition dates back to Buddha's time when monks faced challenges during heavy rains, hindering their travels for sermons and alms-rounds. The increased water levels in rivers and drains made it difficult for them to move and even the Buddha himself fell ill walking in the rain. Moreover, the rainy season led to an abundance of small creatures, insects and mites, unintentionally harmed as monks wandered. Crops in fields were also damaged due to their movements.

To address these issues, Buddha instructed monks to stay in one place during the rainy season, giving rise to the observation of the rains retreat or "vassa." This period allowed monks to dedicate themselves to spiritual contemplation, engage in religious discussions, exchange views, learn sutra lessons by heart and meditate with concentration. It is believed that the rainy season is conducive to meditation.

Devotees who follow the path of Pancasila (the five precepts) and the Noble Eightfold Path (Arya Attangika Magga) also spend this time reflecting on Buddha's teachings and engaging in daily meditation.

During the rainy season, since monks cannot go for alms, householders are encouraged to make offerings (dana) and provide food to them. Following this tradition, devotees from various villages in Kinnaur visit the numerous gompas (monasteries) scattered around Reckong Peo during the rainy season to offer food and other essentials to the monks.

This year, the rains retreat at Reckong Peo and around Kinnaur commenced officially on August 2, 2023 and will last for three months. The monks at one of the many gompas found here, in particular those from Chhos Khor Buddhist Sewa Sangha (https://www.facebook.com/ChhosKhorLingBoudhSewaSangh) will remain stationed at the gompa premises throughout the vassa period, focusing on studies, teaching the Dharma, conducting rituals, maintaining the temple and performing other spiritual practices.

A visit to Reckong Peo during this time of the year not only offers the delight of its natural beauty and the awe of its magnificent peaks but also allows one to experience the spiritual ambiance of vassa. The connection to Buddhist traditions and customs, dating back 2600 years, can be felt here, making a journey to Reckong Peo and Kinnaur district a spiritually enriching experience of a lifetime – a bucket-list destination not to be missed.